This part of the Mugello and lower Apennines is extremely beautiful and served by several trails. Along the way, we hike through the Gothic Line, the Nazi defensive line during WW2 now turned into a memorial park. I decided to continue on the SO.F.T. trail, following the main ring from Le Soda to Passo della Futa, which also overlaps with parts of the Way of the Gods (Via Degli Dei) and the Wool and Silk Road (Via della Lana e della Seta). However, to get to Le Soda, we start with a brisk uphill from Vernio mostly on a narrow path after we leave the town.
Forested mountain ridges seen above pine trees 
Dirt trail through a beech forest 
Green mountain valley with a village below
Toward Poggio de’ Prati
Once we pass the little house with goats and barking dogs (they give the alert but don’t come near you), we soon reach Le Soda and the junction of the trail heading north towards Poggio de’ Prati, 927 m (3,041 ft). It’s very important to not lose the trail, so keep looking for the AP mark, meaning Anello Principale (main ring). In this area, there is also a smaller loop trail marked as A10 which takes you on a different direction. When you’re close to Quattro Strade take the path that leads to Roncobilaccio and the Santuario of Bocca di Rio. Eventually, you’ll find the post for path CAI 00 pointing to Passo della Futa, about 2:30h away.
Stone marker carved with an emblem and an inscription 
Ruined stone building with empty windows 
Rusted artillery gun in the woods 
Layers of forested ridges under a blue sky
The Gothic Line
The trail along the park of the Gothic Line is very peaceful, immersed in a gorgeous beech forest. As I walked on this trail, I couldn’t help thinking how different it must have been in 1944. The history of WW2 is marked along the way on plaques and commemorative stones. You can feel the energy of the place in the air and the unusual silence completes the mood. At a few spots, the forest opens to a spectacular panorama of the Mugello valley below and the man-made Bilacino lake shines against the sky.
Monte Citerna and Passo della Futa
Once we get out on the asphalt road (Via Citerna), Passo della Futa is only 4.8 km (3 mi) away. Here, we have two options – take the easy route on asphalt along the Mugello scenery; or, hike up the wooded path to Monte Citerna, 958 m (3,143 ft), the most challenging part of this trail. In the summer, it gets overgrown with nettle and poison ivy, so avoid this trail if you are allergic (luckily, I’m not).
Stone steps beside the grass terraces of the German war cemetery 
Memorial plaque on a stone wall at the German war cemetery 
Pine trees and stone walls at the German war cemetery 
Rows of graves on the terraces of the German war cemetery with mountains behind
By Passo della Futa, we find the cemetery for the German soldiers who died around this area during WW2. There are over 30,000 soldiers buried here, a stark reminder of what this continent went through not long ago and hopefully a lesson that won’t be forgotten. Very heavy energy fills the area, and the cold Apennine winds send chills down your spine. While processing all these emotions, I enjoyed the fantastic views of the surrounding mountains. The S.O.FT trail and the Way of the Gods continue towards east. But my day was done, from Passo della Futa, it was an easy downhill to Monte di Fo’ on CAI 52 where you could spend the night, or – in my case – take the bus back to Florence. (Update, November 2026: from Monte di Fo’, lines 301/304 go to Barberino di Mugello or San Piero a Sieve; change at Barberino for a bus to Florence or at San Piero a Sieve for the train. Check Autolinee Toscane before you go.)
Vernio – Monte Citerna – Passo della Futa
Duration: 4h15
Distance: 18.3 km (11.4 mi)
Trails: SO.F.T. and the Via degli Dei (Way of the Gods)
Arrive: Vernio (by train). From Firenze SMN train station take the regional train to Vernio via Prato (about 1 hour)
Depart: Monte di Fo’ (by bus). Back from Monte di Fo’: lines 301/304 to Barberino di Mugello or San Piero a Sieve, then change at Barberino for a bus to Florence or at San Piero a Sieve for the train.
Bus and train timetables in Tuscany change often. If you find a line has changed or a stop has moved, please let other hikers know in the comments below!
Planning more hikes without a car? See my guide to day hikes from Florence by train and bus.
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Have you visited the Futa Pass and the Gothic Line memorial? Share your thoughts in the comments.
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